旅好き爺の旅行記
A photo journey by an old man who loves to travel

Feb. 8th (Sat)
I have been staying at Hotel Zenit Convento San Martin in the Centre area of San Sebastian since last night. As is typical of San, breakfast buffet featured a variety of pintxos.

Today, I had intended to take the cable car to the observation deck on Mount Igueldo to look down the entire town. However, it was out of service, so I called a taxi and proceeded to the top. Despite the cloudy weather, I was able to see the entire city and La Concha Beach facing the Bay of Biscay.

I returned to the waiting taxi and requested the driver to take me to the old town. During a brief conversation, I was impressed by his pride in being Basque rather than Spanish. Most of the signs were written in Basque, with “Donostia” being the Basque spelling for San Sebastian.

Vehicles are prohibited within the old town, so I disembarked at the entrance and proceeded towards the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Coro, dedicated to Santa Maria del Coro, the patron saint of San Sebastian, situated deep within the old town. Perhaps due to the early hour, there appeared to be few people on the streets.

The entrance of the Basilica of Santa Maria Coro is adorned with numerous sculptures.

The interior of the cathedral exudes a profound sense of reverence.

From the entrance, you can see San Sebastian Cathedral towering in the distance as you look down the street.

Turning left at the exit, I encountered a statue of a woman carrying a load on her head. Basque women engaged in hard labor, exemplified by the statue of a woman pulling a boat that I observed in Bilbao.

After a while, I arrived at La Vina, the birthplace of Basque cheese cake.

Despite it being before lunch, I savored the renowned Basque cheesecake with coffee. Its creaminess was so remarkable that I had to use a spoon instead of a fork to eat it.

The shop staff were arranging the freshly baked cheesecakes on the one after another. It appears that they sell a substantial quantity each day.

I walked a short distance from the restaurant to San Vincent Church, the oldest church in San Sebastian, constructed in 16 century. It is a magnificent example of Gothic architecture.

As lunchtime approached, I decided to visit Bar Sport first The place was already crowded with patrons, so I ate while standing at the counter.

I enjoyed a dish featuring sea urchin, which was both delicious and rich in flavor. It was a soup-like preparation, served inside a sea urchin shell and garnished with salmon roe.

Next, I visited Ganbara, for its mushroom dishes. It opens at 12:30, and although it was still closed, I decided to wait in line. This restaurant is also listed in the Michelin.

Various types of mushrooms are arranged on the counter. The second one from the right is a porcini mushroom, and the one on the far left is likely a morel mushroom.

The sautéed mushrooms were garnished with a raw egg, resulting in a highly fragrant and delectable dish.

The Changguro crab tart was exceptional, featuring shredded crab meat and a crab miso cream filling.

Following the meal, I decided visit the San Telmo Museum located in the rear of the old town. The museum featured exhibits on history and a collection paintings, providing a substantial amount to see.

After departing from here and walking a short distance, I could see the coast of the Gros district. I was astonished to see that natural stone was utilized for the wave-breaking blocks.

After a day of sightseeing and hopping in the old town, I returned to the hotel and enjoyed pintxos for dinner in an atmospheric bar.

This hotel is also featured in the Michelin Guide and offers delectable pintx.

Feb. 9th (Sun)
It was raining slightly this morning, so I initially planned to walk around the hotel. However after seeing the nearby coast, I decided to visit Petritegi, a cider brewery in Astiaga, approximately 15 minutes away by taxi. From January to April, it is the season for new cider, an apple wine, and you can drink cider poured from the barrel with your meal. The opening time is 13:00, but I arrived early, so it was still quiet.

While I was buying souvenirs at the shop, the entrance to the restaurant opened at exactly 13:00 and I was able to go in. There was a large barrel decoration next to my seat.

The cider is poured directly from the barrel, and it is recommended stop at about a quarter of a glass to achieve the best bubbles and aroma. Additionally, there is a bottle on the table. The alcohol content is 6%, but is it appropriate for a child to consume it?

The dishes consisted of salted cod omelette, grilled hake with garlic, and L-bone steak made from aged red beef. All were delicious, but the flavor of the aged red beef was outstanding.

Dessert: walnuts and cheese

There were many local customers, and it was nice to be able to talk to a few families who were there. I think this meal is also part of the Basque tradition.

Feb. 10th (Mon)
Today, I will return to Bilbao by bus, departing San Sebastian at 11:30. However, since I had some time in the morning, I visited San Sebastian Cathedral, which I was unable to visit. Constructed in the late 19th century as a Gothic Revival building, it is a magnificent and imposing structure.

There is a nearby supermarket that I visited. It is a place I enjoy stopping by when I have time during my travels, as it into the local way of life.

I went to La Concha Beach and then returned to the hotel.

After checking out of the hotel, I took a taxi to the bus station, where I found Maria Cristina Bridge over the Urumea River. It has four distinctive towers.

There are frequent buses from San Sebastian to Bilbao, and I booked a cheap ALSA bus, with a seat at the very front of the second floor. I could see the Urquiola mountains from the window.

I took a taxi from Bilbao bus terminal to my last accommodation, Hotel Abando. It is conveniently located with many restaurants nearby.

Feb. 11th (Tue)
On the way back to Japan, I flew via Madrid and London on flight JL044, an A350-1000 aircraft, and arrived at Haneda the next day at 17:20. I had to transfer twice, but there were no delays and the flight was smooth. I thought it would be difficult to get to the Basque Country from Japan, but it wasn’t that difficult. Although English is not widely spoken, many people are kind, so I didn’t have any trouble even if I didn’t speak Spanish. It was a worthwhile trip, as I was able to experience Basque food and culture.

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